Clearly railway arches are the new place to be if you’re a restaurant. Robin Gill’s third restaurant sits under the railway arches of Bethnal Green, sat along next to gorgeous restaurant by Sager & Wilde, Mission.
He is the chef who created and owns the well-renowned restaurants in London, The Dairy and The Manor.
Already completely enchanted by The Manor and The Dairy, I knew this would be good, but how could he possibly surprise me and surpass himself with this new venture?
The menu is split the same as the other restaurants, into snacks, garden, land and sea, all meant for sharing, unless the tasting menu is taken. What’s different about this place is the “picnic” section, which consists of a whole rabbit served in different ways, including roast saddle, confit leg, a pastry turnover, offal and belly scratchings with radish and artichoke picallilli.
I’ve noticed the influence and similarities on this menu with the other restaurants. The food is served in the same style on the plate and the ingredients and pairings are very similar.
A canape was served of giant, juicy radishes with avocado salsa.
A canape was served of giant, juicy radishes with avocado salsa.
And then the bread came. THAT BREAD. Homemade, warm sourdough. #IhateWhenBreadTastesThisGood.
Served with smoked whisky butter. A little of which pooled at the bottom of the bowl with the butter.
Seriously.
I believe it was the best bread and butter combination I have ever had. You should go, just for this pleasure alone.
Served with smoked whisky butter. A little of which pooled at the bottom of the bowl with the butter.
Seriously.
I believe it was the best bread and butter combination I have ever had. You should go, just for this pleasure alone.
We started with snacks of cornish crab, kohlrabi apple and grilled lemon; grilled sweetcorn, hemp seed; salt cod brandade squid ink, olives & shellfish crisp.
All were excellent, especially the salt cod brandade. The only dud was perhaps the sweetcorn, as it didn't really sing on the plate to me. The crab was delicious, and Robin Gill knows it as you can order similar dishes in all three of his restaurants.
All were excellent, especially the salt cod brandade. The only dud was perhaps the sweetcorn, as it didn't really sing on the plate to me. The crab was delicious, and Robin Gill knows it as you can order similar dishes in all three of his restaurants.
Then from “Garden” we took globe artichokes, padron peppers, fresh curd, herb & chilli salsa. An incredible blend of flavours, vegetables truly singing. A dish that outshined even the meat dishes (and a dish that my meat-loving boyfriend still thinks about).
Sea - Charred mackerel, cod roe, pickles and rice crackers; applewood smoked eel, potatoes, seaweed, morels.
Fantastic dishes, the eel was my favourite course of the whole meal, however we did find and crunch on a very large stone from seaweed not washed thoroughly enough. We're sure this was a one off and it couldn't even put me off the fantastic eel.
The mackerel was full of interesting textures, and cooked beautifully with a smokey flavour coming through from the charring.
Between the Land dishes, I couldn't choose a favourite. Each mouthful it was changing. The Iberico presa, pig head, borlotti beans, anchovy & lettuce was full of textures, from the crispy pig head to the silky smooth presa (presa also being one of my favourite cuts).
Then the lamb rump, sweetbread, cabbage and peas and preserved lemon, again had multiple textures with the fried sweet bread and the lamb was cooked perfectly. The lemon accompanied the dish beautifully, making it lighter and fresher.
Fantastic dishes, the eel was my favourite course of the whole meal, however we did find and crunch on a very large stone from seaweed not washed thoroughly enough. We're sure this was a one off and it couldn't even put me off the fantastic eel.
The mackerel was full of interesting textures, and cooked beautifully with a smokey flavour coming through from the charring.
Between the Land dishes, I couldn't choose a favourite. Each mouthful it was changing. The Iberico presa, pig head, borlotti beans, anchovy & lettuce was full of textures, from the crispy pig head to the silky smooth presa (presa also being one of my favourite cuts).
Then the lamb rump, sweetbread, cabbage and peas and preserved lemon, again had multiple textures with the fried sweet bread and the lamb was cooked perfectly. The lemon accompanied the dish beautifully, making it lighter and fresher.
Paradise Garage is possibly now my favourite out of Robin Gill's restaurants, but ask me that again after I've taken another trip to the Manor, or then the Dairy and I'll get back to you....
Food: 9/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Service: 9/10
Value for Money 7/10
Overall: 9/10
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